I Went to Morocco and No, I Didn’t Love it

From travel magazines to blogs to Instagram, it appeared that Morocco was a major travel destination of 2015. After seeing gorgeous photos and hearing travelers wax poetic about this foreign land, I was so excited to finally visit this part of Africa. But when everyone asked where we went on our honeymoon, I simply stated, “I went to Morocco and no, I did not love it.”

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I’ve been hesitating to write this post for awhile. It’s hard to admit that you don’t enjoy a particular place, especially considering its popularity. I thought that maybe time would enhance my rose-colored glasses when looking back on our time in Morocco. But there were no magic carpet rides, there were no starry, Sahara nights and there were no moments where I can say that I truly loved Morocco.

There were, however, endless amounts of delicious mint tea, amazing camel treks, awesome sunsets, great purchases and absolutely beautiful architecture and artwork.

A Common Misconception about Morocco…

Instagram would have you believe that Morocco is all…

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When in reality, Morocco is a little more like this…

I Went to Morocco and No, I Did Not Love itI Went to Morocco and No, I Didn't Love itI Went to Morocco and No, I Did Not Love it

Epic spider bite - I Went to Morocco and No, I Did Not Love it
My lovely, swollen arm from a mystery bug bite

They don’t tell you that to get to the pretty tile work and mosques, you need to pass piles of garbage and howling kittens.

True, Morocco is a very beautiful place. It boasts the world’s first University, there are amazing Moroccan treasures to be found and there are some friendly locals. But I guess I walk away feeling lukewarm about the whole place.

Our 8 days in Morocco felt a little rough. I was harassed by men, there were starving kittens everywhere, I almost went to the hospital because of some insane bug bite and I felt like I was constantly getting scammed. And I know being scammed is a major part of traveling, but I felt like I could never have my guard down for One. Single. Moment. That kind of alertness is so exhausting, that it’s very difficult to enjoy a place and get the most of out of it.

(And somehow, I was bullied into paying $40 USD FOR A HENNA TATTOO by a little old lady. My most embarrassing travel moment…)

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And okay, I’m about to rant for a second. But, I just do not understand the allure of getting lost in the Medina. Fez’s ancient Medina claims to have over 9,000 alleyways and travel bloggers will romanticize that getting lost amongst this labyrinth is one of the best activities you can do.

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At first, it seems a little cool… all of the beautiful shops and the goodies to be found. But after about 10 alleyways, you realize they all kind of look the same. I’m sure there were some hidden gems that we missed, but I’m gonna go out on a limb here and say, “if you’ve seen one overpriced, Moroccan leather handbag, you’ve seen all overpriced, Moroccan leather handbags.”

Everyone told us we would love it for the chaotic and different kind of trip that it would be. Perhaps it wasn’t the ideal honeymoon destination. Or maybe we’re not as adventurous as I thought. I not only felt disappointed in the trip, I felt disappointed in myself.

However, there were some great moments to be had in Morocco.

Kevin and I both went outside of our comfort zones, which was very important for us to do. We made friends with people in a culture that we were not used to. We were moved by the beautiful call to prayer that occurred everyday. We saw forms of artwork that we would have otherwise not witnessed. We learned how people in this far away land live and what they do to get by. We learned about the mint tea addiction and it’s a real thing, guys. And we’re still brainstorming on some kind of a kitten-protection program based in Morocco. Seriously, the kitten epidemic had us crying constantly.

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I did have one moment that made me long for more… After a couple of nights in Fes, Kevin and I decided to enjoy the sunset over the beautiful terrace on the rooftop of Dar Sienna. Ahmed, the caretaker and manager of the joint, sat down with us and we talked for hours over several cups of mint tea. We spoke of Morocco, his life, our travels, and the future. His joy about learning other cultures and his love for his work moved and inspired us. He is the true soul of Morocco.

So, would I go back again? …Yeah. I think so. I would definitely do it differently next time. Who knows, maybe it gets better with time!

Before we left for our trip, my bridesmaids and travel mates gave me some amazing Moroccan-themed gifts as well as the following advice:

Top Tips for An Unforgettable Time in Morocco

  1. Go to a local bath house. Avoid awkward stares.
  2. Befriend a camel that is terrified of water. Preferably name him Moose.
  3. Dye your hair blonde before your trip. Get called Christina Aguilera and Brad Pitt everywhere you go.
  4. Eat all the uncooked chicken you can find, then hop on an overnight bus. Epic shit will follow.
  5. Do it all. It’s an adventure and you’ll love every minute.

A little confused? Don’t worry, this is based on the advice of two women who journeyed on an epic trip to Morocco 5 years prior with strange tales and even stranger inside jokes.

So with those tips in mind, I’d like to include a few others if you find yourself going to Morocco:

  1. Don’t stay in a riad or dar in the medina. Instead, take many daytrips to the medinas.
  2. Always have a map of some kind. Book, iPhone, compass, whatever. But always have one!
  3. Always have bottled water with you.
  4. Constantly visit restaurants. They will help avoid tip 4 above and give you a much needed solace from the hassle of Jemaa el-Fna.
  5. Buy as much stuff as you can, but search for the best bargain from the many, MANY shops around you. Unless you’re sick of haggling (which we did get sick of).

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So yeah. I went to Morocco and no, I did not love it. But should that stop a traveler from returning to a destination for a do-over?

Has this experience ever happened to you? Have you ever visited Morocco? Let us know below!

41 comments on “I Went to Morocco and No, I Didn’t Love it”

  1. This post speaks to us! It’s so lovely to read a grounded view of travel. You’re totally right too – travel is all about a varying range of experiences… hopefully most are good but some will inevitably be not so great.

    LOVED the honesty in your post Sebrin…. It’s very reassuring to see people sharing real life too! 🙂

    Lloyd & Yaya xx

    1. Thank you very much! I was so nervous to write this post because it was fairly negative. But I’ve been getting support for my honesty from readers like you so I really appreciate it. Thanks again for reading and saying such kind words 🙂

  2. The only thing I want to comment on is the Henna. I visit an elderly couple once per year to receive Henna art on my back. This is the only time/place I receive it as I am loyal to their artwork specifically. I have willingly paid $60+ for their artwork as the designs are unique to them and they make their own “ink”/paste at home. This is their way of life and main source of income as they travel to fairs and shows to do just this. $40 for that intricate design on your hands that I am assuming was done freestyle seems awfully generous to me. I cannot speak for anything else in your post as I’ve not been to Morocco however I greatly appreciate your honesty and your ability to show us the real side of Morocco, not just the instagram side.

    1. Thanks for your comment Angie! I actually have no clue if it was expensive or not, but based on friends’ comments and the attitude of the women giving me the henna, something felt off. It felt a tad aggressive which made me feel that the process was not honest. But we shrugged off the experience as having helped their family so all good! 🙂

      1. 40$ is indeed pretty expensive, considering that the minimum wage out here is something around 250$, no one is willing to pay that much for a henna tattoo, most of us won’t pay even 3$ for that.
        i understand that these women’s work is seasonal and all that, but it’s extremely unethical to robe somebody and overcharge them only because they’re tourists, which automatically translates to “people with a lot of money” in their heads.
        nothing gives you the right to do that, especially when you’re literally begging for them to get a Henna tattoo from you, and then fight with them to get more money because you know these people would do anything just to get away from you and avoid problems :’)

  3. Hey Sebrin, thanks for your honesty! Actually we are considering going to Morocco (Marrakesh) in fall but now we’re a liiiitle bit unsure if we should do it this year or postpone it to next year. Although you’re right with what you said: maybe it would be better next time and maybe this belongs to travelling as well: the “not so worthy moments” of travelling.
    Well, we’ll see if we end up there or not. But it sure is on our travel-list!
    xx Anna & Vanessa

    1. Hi guys, thank you for your comment and reading! Despite my negative reaction, I highly recommend going (which it sounds like you’re doing regardless) 🙂 I learned a lot of valuable lessons and did some very cool stuff! I think I just learned that not everything is Instagram-pretty. That some places are a lot more terrifying, dirty or sad compared to the beautiful markets and desert scenes everyone takes pictures of. I’m sure you will both have a lovely time no matter what!

  4. Loving this story – it’s good to also see the things that didn’t make Instagram. Definitely gives perspective. I would definitely like to visit Morocco, at least for the experience of it.

    1. Thanks Maria! You should definitely go to get the experience 🙂 I hope I can go back and try it differently. It makes me sad to leave a place with not-so-good memories.

  5. We spent 15 days in Morocco in 2014. The people/ kids hawking little dumb trinkets, that they try and shame you into buying. The food is lamb, lamb, lamb. The roaring motorcycles in 10ft wide alleys in Marrakesh. Everything is small, cup of coffee is an American espresso.
    They are 500 years behind the west in terms of respect for women. These muslims that take the little bruise on their forehead as a badge of how pious they are. “No pictures, No pictures” can’t take pictures of nothing without approval.

  6. Interesting read for sure…the starving kitty part breaks my heart..huge cat lover :(…not sure this is a place Id want to see.. Thanks for sharing..

    Valerie

  7. Pass on Morocco, my trip is winding down and I’m exhausted. The place is not as glamorous. Very dirty and the culture is overwhelming.

    1. I’m sorry to hear that Morocco isn’t working for you! I think I learned that when traveling to Morocco, it either needs to be its OWN trip or to stay somewhere kind of nice so you can relax after the hassle on the streets/medinas. Good luck on the rest of your journey!

  8. I just read this and dang!! This is my worst fear. I really have wanted to visit Morocco but I am worried that it’s just a country that people have built up to look amazing over Instagram. We were thinking about going after our Mediterranean cruise next summer but idk. What do you think? Should we go somewhere else thats better close by to Spain?

    1. Honestly, you could probably say this for so many places! Instagram makes everything look so beautiful but there are always bad parts everywhere. I think I just wasn’t prepared for so much poverty.

    2. Is a dump and everyone is out to scam you , honestly there are plenty of nicer places to visit on this world than Morocco.
      I would never recommend Marakkeche just on the fact of how backwards they treat women. Is discussing watching the men harassing the women and girls, the most shocking thing I see was when I was Sat on Mcdonalds terrace having a coffee (Is a nice safe zone, the security keep most the beggers and sellers away) was a girl of say around 5 ish years old dressed like a hooker begging Arab men for money, The security guard was trying to move her on but the men told him she could stay.

  9. i’m an african american woman and i have to agree with your depiction of morocco. You can’t let your guide down for a minute and actually near sundown, after several hours lost in the labyrinthian walkways in Fez, we were strongly encouraged to leave the city before dark, particularly since it was obvious we were 1. westerners. 2. foreign women and 3. wearing shorts in a seriously muslim city. This was in 2005. I would go back but no need for me to get off the beaten path next time.

    1. Did you go with just women? I imagine that’s a lot harder than going with a guy. I was lucky in that sense, but there was still quite a bit of attention on me regardless.

      And I’m glad you would want to go back! Even after all this time I would still want to go back, but I’d go extra fancy so I have a little bit more safety and comfort. Thanks for reading!

  10. I’m currently in Marakkeche and hate the place. Wanted a nice enjoyable holiday and like you say in post all you seem to be doing is trying not to robbed by literally everyone here. They all want Tips too even though they have offered nothing out the ordinary for it.
    I have been to some the most currupt countries in the world but nothing compares to this dump. I think people like to say it’s a cool place because everyone is brain washed into saying it is a cool place. My advice is avoid at all costs, but the biggest disappointment will be telling an older guy at work, who dreams of coming here that I hated it.

  11. Loved the honesty in this post! Usually as a frequent traveler I don’t like mentioning a certain place for fear of backlash that I might get from it and stick to the mantra every destination has something to offer. But I appreciate the honesty especially after reading your post on social media it brings out a different side. I wish all travel bloggers would be more honest when talking about destinations, because in truth there are some blogs that are so generic it gets boring.

  12. I’m am in Casablanca right now and the city is nice.. there are some nice things to see here but nothing special, in my opinion. The staff at the Mohammed V airport were not very helpful with English speakers. No one could put me in the right direction to find my lost bag. The hours of operation are a joke, they come to work when they feel like it. I went to Meknes, not much to see there, very poor village life mostly. Overall I am not impressed. If you’ve seen one 3rd world country you have seen them all, trust me. The constant need to avoid eye contact with shady looking people and always being haggled and charged 3 times over was very exhausting. Many of the things I bought I could have gotten from Pier One for cheaper. I thought this would be a cheap vacation but it’s no cheaper than anywhere else because you will be charged the American price. This is not a destination I would come back to..far too much despair!

  13. I just watched a family spend some time in Fez (a lot of what they experienced is what you wrote about), and it didn’t look like my type of thing. I think the culture would be neat to experience – minus the pressure to spend money, but it’s too tight of a space. And, the kittens totally break it for me. After reading your story, I looked up other people’s experiences with the kittens, and, yeah, the sadness would be heavy.

  14. Hello, just came back from morocco with my boyfriend, he is Norwegian and i am Turkish and we live in Norway. I am quite used to bargaining and being pushed by shop owners etc. and annoying taxi drivers in Istanbul but nothing is comparable to this…unfortunately we didn’t like morocco. I have been to India; Bombay and Goa too and Bombay is also a difficult city but no, i liked it at the sametime. Marrakesh is the only place that I didn’t like traveling and i am very dissapointed. I thought it would be a nice and different trip for us but 5 days felt like 25 days, i was looking forwards to our trip back home… i want to tell everyone who is dreaming of morocco “no, no don’t go and don’t romanticize!” There is some sort of immorality which is very annoying, (i mean the cheating culture and harrassing comes after that) on our way to Essaouira we were a few people from different parts of Europe and one American man, police stopped our van and asked if there is any american in the van, we said no; and then our bus driver told us if there are Americans or İsraelis in the trip, they ask for money! Otherwise they create trouble for those people. Incredible! We are vegetarian and it was also impossible to enjoy any food but other tourists that we met also complained about the food so probably meat doesn’t make much difference. Being in constant “defence” mood and feeling like being scammed constantly.. dont go to Morocco. You won’t have any moment that is relaxing unfortunately..

  15. 8 members of our US family stayed in Fez and Marrakesh. Reading these comments I will have to agree on most of the negative comments. Starving and abandoned kittens were heartbreaking to me as a cat lover. Adult cats found enough to eat in the alley garbage but seemed to just drop the kittens and leave them.
    All 8 of us of varying ages got some sort of illness while there. I myself ended up with a very uncomfortable urinary infection for which a culture is being done. Taking Cipro for a week after first intestinal upset had no effect. People are still becoming ill after going home.
    We stayed in Riads in Medinas and they were nice enough, but were not prepared for the upheaval when traveling the narrow alleys. Still can smell the diesel. Managed to dodge the bikes but husband got his bag pulled off his shoulder and strap broken but not stolen. there were 2 phone and wallet theft attempts but both thwarted by vigilant folks in our party.

  16. Nice post I like how you was honest and at last you like somethings there’s nothing perfect everywhere there’s a nice and the bad and it’s matter of tastes and matter of view the things you don’t like can be amazing for others , everyone have different view and different taste .
    Anyway welcome to Morocco
    And for anyone would love to see the true and the real beauty of Morocco contact me .
    http://Www.privatedeserttours.com

  17. I’m sorry you didn’t like Morocco. I had the most amazing time there. We got a guide to take us to all the sites I researched before my trip. The architecture is amazing! Super cheap for your own private guide. We went on a full day quad tour that brought us past Berber villages and amazing landscapes. We had two chill days at the beach. I drank all the mint tea! We stayed in a romantic riad. We fell in love with tagine and took a cooking class to learn to make it! The Medina is hectic and we didn’t spend a whole lot of time walking through it. We are going back in January to the Sahara desert! I can’t wait!

  18. So interesting to come across your site/blog! Glad I found it. I’m an avid traveler and love discovering new parts of the world (to me). Been to most countries in Eastern and Western Europe, Caribbean, and China in my youth, 20s and 30s. Wanted to see the world before having to settle down if I ever had to. Glad I did as disability gripped me in my now late 40s! Whew dodged a bullet there. 🙂

    Now with a 2nd hubby who’s not as adventurous as the 1st one and a nervous traveler especially anywhere where English isn’t spoken (ergo lotsa places lol). Finally got him interested in retiring overseas somewhere so now doing research on places to retire (rent wandering only tho).

    1st fiancé had a huge network of Moroccan friends in NYC. Burbur to be specific. When we announced our plans to marry in Italy, a place I’d lived in my 20s and traveled extensively, they clamored for us to marry in Morocco at a fraction of the cost. I agreed on the condition fiancé Felix and I VISIT first. Had no intention of having my wedding somewhere I’d never visited. We’d already staked out several spots in Italy to wed. But decided to visit Morocco and reconsider.

    I went with an open mind ofc with the lure of spending far less money and having a very different type of wedding experience!

    I’m glad we visited first. Lemme tell you, I’ve been to (& love) the underbelly of many European cities and towns and loved them all, but this was wholly a different animal.

    Many of our friends were going to be in the different cities we visited so we were set in terms of having guides and a built in network. I was psyched. I’ve traveled with a backpack at times with almost no money and no direction or contacts, so seemed dreamy right?

    Wrong. Almost everywhere we went we were assigned guides we did not know who were evidently mandatory “for our safety” and very expensive at that. We were told repeatedly we would be assaulted or attacked without them. And undoubtedly our money would be the first thing taken if not our lives! None of our friends had told us this beforehand so the setup for guides in each city seemed questionable at best. I quickly started suspecting that our friends were getting kickbacks from these guides that were absolutely necessary for our lives and pockets safety. Whatever, what can you do? We went along with it paying out the nose for guides through every town and carted from 1 tourist selling point to the next. Selling and haggling was the name of the game the entire
    trip. It became so tiresome and tedious, I never wanted to see a casbah again frankly.

    And having read Paul Bowles’ works, whom Felix 1st hubby was a personal Friend, I’d thought maybe the flies he mentions throughout his works was an exaggeration or maybe some kind of metaphor (for the times and experience). Nope. A true relentless reality. Everywhere we went. IDK if you experienced that but it was unreal for us. They were everywhere. I wondered what could possibly be causing so many of them to be free flying like that everywhere. I figured it out later. Ugh

    Now here’s where the story gets strange. We know a prominent comedian there and admittedly did have fun going around with him as no haggling needed. Free goods abounded he was so loved by the people. That was kinda fun! He and our guide took us to prospective hotels and spots to wed. And one day when my hubby went to the men’s room, I stood to walk around and admire the architecture of this hotel. He said in a voice I’ll never forget, Sit down woman! When your husband leaves any room, you stay put and say nothing ‘til his return! I turned in disbelief to our friend and nervously laughed stumbling through my attempt at quipping at his “joke.” He was dead serious and menacing even! He said I’m not joking. Sit down woman. Learn to be a good quiet wife starting now. I was stunned. I sat down immediately and was silent. For the rest of that excursion. Now we were filmmakers and we filmed our way through Morocco. But unfortunately I didn’t have the camera rolling for that exchange. Unreal.

    Next debacle, we waited a staggering 10 hours for a plane to take us from one city to the next. Can’t remember which. The security guards kept harassing Felix as he looks Moroccan in Arabic. I speak French so implored them to ask in French as we didn’t speak Arabic. Some of the guard would literally put their hands over my mouth to silence the woman speaking and would say in clear French Women do not speak here. We are addressing your Arabic husband. Silence woman!

    Ok things were devolving at an alarming rate. Then they would not let us leave the airport. We had to have one of our friends come there to vouch for us that we were not spies and Felix was indeed not Arabic. Surreal.

    Also I had hip length long curly red hair. The women would sometimes pull my hair OUT OF MY HEAD so hard as they passed me. I guess because my beaming red hair wasn’t covered. I quickly bought the most beautiful blue burka (think that’s it) to cover my offensive locks.

    My birthday was approaching and I was absolutely miserable at this point. I begged that we take a boat to Spain so I could be anywhere but there for my 28th. We discovered Andalusia and Grenada on that side trip. (Spain isn’t my fave spot but Andalusia is absolutely majestic and exceptional!).

    Anyway, the most curious and inexplicable part of our Moroccan journey/saga was this. And this is where if you’re easily “queasied,” you can skip this part. The strangest thing I noticed in bigger cities and smaller villages alike was the habit of relieving oneself in public. Now the Turkish toilets left much to be desired there but roadsides, city streets, apartment foyers (even!), and at times literally right in front of you. I s*** you not, pun intended.

    This perhaps explains the severe infestation of flies everywhere. It was unbelievable and pretty bizarre (& kinda gross lol, sorry). To date, and I’ve been to some very impoverished 3rd world countries, I’ve never seen anything like it.

    To sum it up, we spent loads more money than anticipated due to safety reasons (I guess), we were harassed at times, we were also shown beautiful restaurants to be sure with fantastic food, my fiancé went to a men’s only wedding (the women have their own separately interestingly), we met diplomats, locals, sweet mountain Burburs whose goods were exceptional, and I learned my place as a woman in their society (fast). We opted to go with the wedding in Tuscany with my contacts at a fraction of what it would have cost in Morocco ironically, and I make a point that I doubt I’ll return there. The incessant scams from goods to tour guides/guards was staggering. We left a lot wiser and seriously in the red. It near broke our bank. Paul Bowles’ descriptions are apt: beautiful indeed but beset with fliessssss. Yipes!

    Thx for your article. I’ve never shared my experiences with anyone because Morocco seems to have a spell on people who’ve been there (& those who wish to go). It’s so bizarre. TYSM for reading my post. It felt therapeutic to fan the flies away from our trip finally! lol 🙂

  19. We are a French Canadian couple and we are just finishing our 30 days trip in Morocco. We had an amazing time in small places, especially in Taghazout, Essaouira and Chefchaouen. Locals were welcoming and friendly. We wouldn’t recommend spending too much time in Tanger, Fes or Marrakesh though. If you go back, don’t miss those places 🙂

    We read quite a lot of blogs and reviews before going to Morocco and I’m glad we did!!! When we got there, we knew about the most common scams and we had learned a few expressions in Moroccan Arabic.

    We said «non merci, bonne journée» and «la shoukran» a thousand times per day and I wore jeans and t-shirt almost all the time. That was a bit annoying but everything went pretty well. I noticed that when we speak in the locals’ language they perceive us in a different way and they are willing to help more and bargain.

    A few random tips for those who want to go:

    -Get a SIM card with data at Maroc Telecom. For us, it has been very useful to find out the value of things on the spot or just to find our way in the medinas.

    -Be prepared to bargain and sometimes pay a few dirhams more. It is useless to feel bitter about it.

    -Always negotiate the price BEFORE getting anything, even directions. I got out of a taxi once because the driver didn’t want to use the meter (compteur). I simply said no, sorry it is too expensive for me and I waited until one accepted to respect the law (the price went down from 100 to 20 dirham).

    Morocco is not an easy destination. There is a lot of poverty…

  20. I do not know why Westerners keep whinning about places such as Morocco, Tunisia and India being dirty, unattractive and about people being rude, barbarian, you name it!!! You’re visting third world countries ruled by rotten dictatorships!!!

  21. I have had to spent 5 months in this country.
    I do speak French and I do understand a bit how they treat each other.
    Economic inequality is a big problem, sure they suffered a lot by colonisation and still they have problems…
    Poverty and poverty causing ignorance.. As a woman, a bit city woman who used to face lots of freaks of maniacs daily in every other country, no I didn’t feel safe.
    On the other hand, the culture, customs, amazing hospitality of the local people (not the ones asking for money, just “people” who love to host), music and the motifs of this land could create a fantastic paradise.
    It’s too pity, really..

  22. I just returned….I had a miserable time…..I took my 19 year old nephew and I am a 60 year old woman…….we had a guide who could not handle receiving requests from women…..he spewed vitriole towards Jews and Israel…..and blasted us with the koran on a daily basis……..now, I want to be fair, and not blast a country because of one man…..there is some beautiful architecture, and lovely monuments…..of course, there is the experience of being outbid in the market places by experts, but coming home with some wonderful treasure from Morocco……at the same time, until we were in our hotel room each night, I never felt safe. The images of too many women and girls in berkas or covered was disconcerting…..every animal we encountered was close to starvation and/or ill………for me, there seemed to be a sense of humanity that was missing….I have travelled many places and seen many things and ALWAYS found commonality and connection among many different peoples….that was missing here……….I come back a bit soured…….I could share more…..but…….I am just going to say, Morocco just wasn’t a great place for me and my nephew…..

  23. I’m glad I read this article and all the comments. For the last few days, I thought something was wrong with me… I went to Morocco and hated it? Wanted to leave after two days even if I had to swim across the Atlantic? I was scolding myself – these people are poor, they are uneducated, it’s not their fault, you are a pampered westerner etc. Maybe so. Maybe so. I’m trying hard to only remember the good things of our stay (there were, to be sure) and erase the myriad of bad experiences from our shell-shocked minds. Perhaps in time, we will.

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